Page 41
The Formation of the Modern East Asian Economy

The Japanese are fond of display, and so wrap themselves up in clean and elegant clothing. Since the country was unified by Tokugawa Hideyoshi 24 years ago, people have become interested in nothing else but dressing themselves. So that their thirst for silk would not be quenched if they consumed all the silk shipped out of China and Manila. At present, Japan consumes annually 180,000 to 210,000 kilograms of raw silk. The price of one kilogram is 300 taels. When purchase in packs, it cost 250 taels this year but usually it costs more. This is a white silk yarn of excellent quality, which the people process beautifully. The thread is woven into white silk cloth with great skill and then cut up to make clothing. In addition, the imported cloths include several thousand bolts of plain or embroidered velvet, plain taffeta, damask, thick woolen cloth, and much else. All of these imports are sold and consumed every year. Regardless of whether they are men or women, the people wrap themselves up with brightly colored dress. It does not matter if they are a young girl, a spinster, or even a housewife over the age of 50.


      As the upper limit of annual silk yarn consumption in Japan in early seventeenth century would have been about 240,000 kilograms, a Japanese scholar has recently estimated that this figure would have been made into 180,000 pieces of adult clothing. Thus, when 97 Chinese ships arrived in Nagasaki with 140,000 kilograms of silk yarn, that would have allowed over 100,000 Japanese out of a total population of 12 million to own a piece of imported silk clothing every year. Since silk was not thrown away, its ongoing import into Japan must have made what was once a luxury product into an object of common consumption.

     All this import of foreign silk yarn indicates that Japanese production of silk must have boomed during these years. In fact, it also developed many new skills thanks to the introduction to Japan of looms which allowed for the production of high quality silk textiles. The Chinese type of loom, capable of weaving brocade with highly complex patterns of gold or silver thread, was transmitted from Ming China to Kyoto by the latter half of the sixteenth century. At roughly the same time, Chinese weavers from the Lower Yangtze delta were brought to the port of Sakai, near present-day Osaka, to teach Japanese artisans how to weave golden thread brocade, damask, crepe, and other high quality silk.



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